2019 Combined Japan Cup

2019 Combined Japan Cup
LocationSaijō city, Ehime Prefecture
Dates25 – 26 May 2019
Champions
MenTomoa Narasaki
WomenMiho Nonaka
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The 2019 Combined Japan Cup was the second of the competition. It was organized by the JMSCA (Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association). It was held from 25 to 26 May 2019 in Saijō city, Ehime Prefecture. The athletes competed in combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead. The winner for men was Tomoa Narasaki and for women was Miho Nonaka.[1][2]

Schedule

Men Women
25 May (Qualifications)
09:00 ~ 09:25 Speed 12:15 ~ 12:40 Speed
09:50 ~ 12:05 Bouldering 13:05 ~ 15:20 Bouldering
13:00 ~ 14:40 Lead 16:15 ~ 17:55 Lead
26 May (Finals)
09:05 ~ 09:25 Speed 13:05 ~ 13:35 Speed
09:55 ~ 11:19 Bouldering 13:55 ~ 15:19 Bouldering
11:45 ~ 12:25 Lead 15:45 ~ 16:25 Lead

Competition format

It was held to simulate the latest Olympic combined format. It was also held to decide the athletes to compete in the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships in August.

Disciplines Qualifications Finals (8) Notes
Speed Athletes climbed twice in two different lanes on a standardized 15-meter wall. Best times counted. Athletes were seeded based on the speed qualification results. Athletes climbed head-to-head with each other in a bracket format. All competitors ran in the same number of races.
Boulder Four boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was five minutes. Three boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was four minutes. Score was determined by number of tops, number of zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.
Lead A single lead route. A single lead route. Time limit to climb the route was six minutes. Score was determined by the highest point reached and the amount of time spent climbing the route.

Athletes were ranked based on their scores in separate disciplines. Points were calculated by multiplying the ranks of each athlete in the three disciplines.

Men

Tomoa Narasaki set a new Japan national record for speed climbing of 6.291s in the finals.[3]

FINALS QUALIFICATIONS
Rank Name Final Points Lead Boulder Speed Rank Name Points Lead Boulder Speed Seed
1 Tomoa Narasaki 6.00 2. 35+ 3. 2T3z 4 5 1. 6.291 3 Tomoa Narasaki 16.00 2. 37+ 4. 1T4z 3 7 2. 6.654 2
2 Kai Harada 12.00 1. Top 2. 2T3z 2 4 6. fall 1 Kai Harada 6.00 1. Top 1. 2T4z 5 9 6. 7.062 11
3 Kokoro Fujii 36.00 3. 35+ 6. 1T2z 4 9 2. 6.475 2 Kokoro Fujii 6.00 3. 37+ 2. 2T3z 8 9 1. 6.528 1
4 Keita Dohi 40.00 5. 34 1. 3T3z 5 5 8. 7.273 5 Keita Dohi 294.00 6. 37+ 7. 1T4z 4 11 7. 7.168 4
5 Yoshiyuki Ogata 72.00 6. 34 4. 2T3z 4 5 3. 6.680 6 Yoshiyuki Ogata 390.00 13. 32 10. 1T2z 1 2 3. 6.703 8
6 Meichi Narasaki 80.00 4. 34+ 5. 1T2z 2 5 4. 8.263 4 Meichi Narasaki 60.00 4. 37+ 3. 1T4z 1 13 5. 6.945 6
7 Ryoei Nukui 280.00 7. 31+ 8. 0T1z 0 5 5. 6.798 7 Ryoei Nukui 704.00 16. 30 11. 1T2z 3 4 4. 6.811 12
8 Taisei Ishimatsu 392.00 8. 25+ 7. 1T2z 7 9 7. 7.062 8 Taisei Ishimatsu 840.00 14. 31+ 6. 1T4z 4 8 10. 7.486 5
9 Yuta Imaizumi 972.00 9. 34+ 12. 1T2z 6 7 9. 7.459 14
10 Masahiro Higuchi 1045.00 5. 37+ 19. 0T1z 0 4 11. 7.525 18
11 Shuta Tanaka 1088.00 8. 37+ 8. 1T4z 7 18 17. 8.364 17
12 Rei Sugimoto 1440.00 12. 32 15. 0T2z 0 8 8. 7.327 3
13 Rei Kawamata 1615.00 17. 29 5. 1T4z 3 10 19. 8.577 16
14 Taito Nakagami 2520.00 7. 37+ 20. 0T1z 0 6 18. 8.459 19
15 Hiroto Shimizu 2700.00 10. 34 18. 0T1z 0 2 15. 8.096 7
16 Tomoaki Takata 2730.00 15. 31+ 14. 0T2z 0 7 13. 7.943 9
17 Yuji Inoue 2808.00 18. 26+ 13. 0T2z 0 3 12. 7.560 13
18 Ao Yurikusa 2992.00 11. 33+ 17. 0T2z 0 14 16. 8.354 20
19 Keita Watabe 3420.00 19. 24+ 9. 1T3z 3 4 20. 8.612 10
20 Yuya Kitae 4480.00 20. 23 16. 0T2z 0 10 14. 7.957 15

Women

Miho Nonaka set a new Japan national record for speed climbing of 8.499s in the qualifications.[4]

FINALS QUALIFICATIONS
Rank Name Final Points Lead Boulder Speed Rank Name Points Lead Boulder Speed Seed
1 Miho Nonaka 7.00 7. 35+ 1. 2T3z 2 3 1. 8.790 1 Miho Nonaka 20.00 5. 36 4. 1T4z 5 15 1. 8.499 2
2 Akiyo Noguchi 12.00 2. 46+ 2. 2T3z 6 8 3. 10.097 4 Akiyo Noguchi 32.00 4. 36+ 2. 2T3z 3 4 4. 9.452 3
3 Ai Mori 12.00 1. Top 3. 1T3z 1 11 4. 12.018 3 Ai Mori 27.00 1. Top 3. 2T2z 9 4 9. 12.167 5
4 Natsuki Tanii 72.00 3. 46+ 4. 0T2z 0 3 6. 12.781 5 Natsuki Tanii 132.00 2. 37+ 6. 1T2z 1 2 11. 12.443 10
5 Nanako Kura 128.00 8. 30 8. 0T1z 0 8 2. 10.820 7 Nanako Kura 225.00 15. 27+ 5. 1T3z 4 8 3. 9.450 15
6 Futaba Ito 150.00 6. 38 5. 0T2z 0 9 5. 10.075 2 Futaba Ito 24.00 12. 27+ 1. 4T4z 15 10 2. 8.992 4
7 Mei Kotake 210.00 5. 39+ 6. 0T1z 0 1 7. 11.682 8 Mei Kotake 240.00 6. 32 8. 1T2z 5 6 5. 11.061 8
8 Natsumi Hirano 224.00 4. 39+ 7. 0T1z 0 4 8. 11.760 6 Natsumi Hirano 168.00 3. 37 7. 1T2z 2 3 8. 11.832 6
9 Yuki Hiroshige 672.00 8. 28+ 12. 0T2z 0 11 7. 11.567 9
10 Mao Nakamura 864.00 16. 25+ 9. 1T2z 10 3 6. 11.158 7
11 Hana Kudo 1300.00 13. 27+ 10. 1T2z 10 11 10. 12.272 14
12 Yuka Higuchi 1683.50 7. 29+ 18. 0T0z 0 0 13. 12.558 13
13 Miu Kurita 1728.00 9. 28+ 16. 0T1z 0 4 12. 12.545 12
14 Risa Ota 1936.00 11. 28+ 11. 1T1z 8 8 16. 13.514 11
15 Serika Okawachi 2340.00 10. 28+ 13. 0T1z 0 1 18. 14.217 17
16 Kokoro Takata 3570.00 14. 27+ 17. 0T1z 0 7 15. 13.482 16
17 Momoka Miyajima 3857.00 19. 20+ 14. 0T1z 0 2 14. 12.829 18
18 Sora Ito 4190.50 17. 21+ 14. 0T1z 0 2 17. 14.109 20
19 Shuri Nishida 6327.00 18. 21+ 18. 0T0z 0 0 19. 14.744 19

References

  1. ^ "Outline of 2019 Combined Japan Cup".
  2. ^ "General results" (PDF).
  3. ^ "JMSCA COMBINED JAPAN CUP - SAIJYO, EHIME 2019 GENERAL RESULT MEN COMBINED".
  4. ^ "JMSCA COMBINED JAPAN CUP - SAIJYO, EHIME 2019 GENERAL RESULT WOMEN COMBINED".